Water Frequently Asked Questions
A. I would recommend No. The water that comes out of a dehumidifier can contain many fungal spores especially if the unit is older. The high microbial contamination is not suitable for growing plants unless boiled first.
A. Yes there is quite a difference actually. Tap water may be suitable to drink but can contain high levels of minerals that may not be suitable for plants. You can have your water analyzed at the local waterworks company to find out a break down of what's in the water. Usually tap water is usable for growing but using distilled water is much better. Distilled water is totally pure and is the best water to use to feed your plants. Growers who use well water will often have to use a reverse osmosis machine to clean their water and remove almost all impurities.
A. Using h202 in the reservoir will kill the pythium spores, but it may also damage healthy roots that are still remaining unless given the right dose. H202 will oxidize organic material in general, rather than only killing the pythium. Once the damage is gotten this far it's hard to control. When it comes to pythium the best method for control is prevention. If your crop is close to being done then the best thing to do would be to finish it off and after harvest sterilize everything! Try and keep on top of it this time. Keep reservoir temperature.
A. Yes, allowing it to sit with the lid off of the container for 24-48 hours will allow the chlorine in the water to dissipate.
A. Most plants do not respond well to saltwater, but different plants have different levels of sodium tolerance. Eventually feeding with saltwater will kill your plants, so this is not recommended.
A. PH stands for probable hydrogen. It is a measurement of a nutrient solution's relative concentration of positive hydrogen ions. It is measured in a scale of 14. 0 being neutral and below 7 is acidic and above 7 is called alkaline.
A. Yes it is extremely important. The PH affects the way a plant absorbs it's nutrients. If the plants PH is too low (acidic), acid salts bind up nutrients chemically and the roots are unable to absorb them. Too high of a PH (alkaline) and certain nutrients become unavailable.
A. For every full point change in PH causes in an increase or decrease by 10 times. For example soil with a PH of 6 is 10 times more acidic than soil with a PH of 7Soil with a PH of 6 is 100 times more acidic than soil with a PH of 8. So yes a point or two really does matter.
A. To adjust and make the PH lower or more acidic you can use PH down, a pre mix concentrate which is usually phosphoric or nitric acid but a number of acids will work to lower the PH. To raise the PH use a pre mix concentrate which is usually potassium hydroxide.
A. No. While it will lower the PH, your plants will not be happy. It might cause a reaction with fertilizer salts in your nutrient solution.
A. If you are in the vegetative stage use nitric acid. It will give your plants a small amount of nitrogen. If you are in the flowering stage use the phosphoric acid and it will give your plants a small amount of phosphorus.
A. Yes, ozone is the strongest oxidant for disinfecting your water. Use ozone prior to mixing your nutrient solution. Clean the water first using ozone, and then add the nutrients. The ozone will not react well with the nutrients.
A. The best would be distilled, and is also very readily available. Tap water has a high chlorine content but if left out for 24 hours it will have enough time for the chlorine to dissipate and will be suitable swell, providing it's not well water. But distilled is definitely the way to go.
A. Possibly the beginning of a certain type of algae, or perhaps just residue from your medium. If the medium is rock wool or hydroton it is harmless. Possibly your nutrients are precipitating in the reservoir resulting in a cloudy deposit. If your reservoir temperature is climbing too high this can also have a negative effect on your nutrient solution. Make sure your reservoir temperature is running between 55 - 65 f. The warmer the reservoir the less available oxygen is there for the roots. As temperature raises this really slows down the growth rate and becomes prone to disease and fungal attack.
A. No, plants do not take c02 through the root system. This will have no positive affect what so ever. Add Oxygen to your root system instead to ensure an optimal growth rate. The roots combine sugars with oxygen to produce energy for the plant. The plant breathes in C02 to produce those sugars it needs to convert to energy. This cycle is known as Photosynthesis.
A. The best and most cost effective way is to use a suitable size air pump running on a continual basis.
A. The Ideal temperature for the nutrient solution to be at is between 55-65 F.
A. Some growers use chitosan or silica in the reservoir to increases the plants natural defense system. Some also use a variety of beneficial microbes in the nutrient solution to fight off any opposing fungi. Keep your nutrient solution clean and at the right temperature (55 - 65 F). Always clean and sterilize equipment between each crop.
A. The algae are forming due to the light coming in contact with the standing water in your table corners. Try and cover this some how. Fill it with clay pellets or a piece of white poly but somehow block the light from coming in contact with the standing water. Algae are bad and are a breeding ground for fungus gnats.
A. If the fertilizer is granular (dry) then this is very common and is usually caused by a protective coating that is applied to it while being manufactured. If you are using liquid fertilizer and clouding still occurs on a regular basis you should contact the manufacturer of the fertilizer and find out why. Make sure you mix your fertilizer in the specified order. Often times manufacturers require there fertilizer be mixed in a certain order.
A. No it is not needed this young in the plants early stage. At this stage there will be hardly any organic matter for the h202 to attack therefore it will attack fragile little root hairs. Older root systems are stronger and more resistant to h202 damage unless extremely high doses occur.
A. Just add water until PPM reaches desired level. Only do this once. After one time the nutrient tank should be drained and replaced with a fresh new mixture. Always monitor your nutrient solution for drastic changes in ppm.
A. In the bloom stage the plants use allot of potassium which naturally acidifies the nutrient solution.
A. Certain types of Styrofoam and polystyrene can have toxicity problems with plants. Certain type's work fine for growers and I will do more research into which ones work okay. Commercial lettuce operations are often run in Styrofoam. I will definitely get back to you on this one. Great question!
A. Nutrient film Technique. It works by running a thin film of nutrient solution over the plants root system usually in a flood or trough system. This very old method and is very effective for high yields.
A. First thing is to get your reservoir out of to your grow room or as far away from the lights as possible. If you can possibly dig a whole deep in the ground and drop your reservoir beneath surface level this will also help allot. A cheap but real pain in the ass method is to freeze 2 liter bottles of water and constantly add one to the reservoir because they will only last a couple of hours. If you want to go high tech then you can invest in a reservoir chiller that will cool your nutrient solution by running it through refrigerated coils set by thermostat. Unfortunately these units are costly but are worth every penny when temperatures get too high. If the temperature in your reservoir gets too hot growth rate will slow immediately and you will see the effects very quickly. High reservoir temperatures leave the nutrient solution prone to disease and fungal attacks. Keep the nutrient solution between 55-66F for optimal growth.
A. Because the hydroton and rock wool mixture will retain some water, watering once an hour for 2-3 minutes would be a sufficient feeding cycle. When the plants are very young the time can be reduced to every 2 hours instead of for every 1 hour. Watering in the night cycle can be reduced to every 4 hours. Many of the cycle stat timers now come with photocells and a night mode which will automatically reduce the feeding cycle for the dark periods. They are a definite must in any indoor garden running on an automated feeding system.
A. Usually products such as Rubbermaid are rate as food grade based on the fact that food could quite possibly be stored in them. Always look for food grade plastics when seeking out material for a hydroponics garden. Better to be safe than sorry. Some plastics can leach back releasing harmful toxins into the water system so be careful what you use. The safest bet would be to purchase equipment for hydroponics growing so you know it will be made of the correct materials. These can be purchased right here online or at your local hydro shop.
A. Yes, it is very beneficial to your garden. It increases the plants resistance to disease as well as salinity. It also increases the pant in strength and health. Use potassium silicate in your reservoir in small doses always to maintain a strong resistant plant.