Platinum Series LED Lights utilize the most COMPLETE SPECTRUM on the market today by utilizing our 12 and 14 DIFFERENT BANDS of LEDs to achieve maximum photosynthesis and yields. No other LED grow light on the market can touch it!

Platinum Series LED Lights use only top quality 3w high output LEDs from makers such as US made Bridgelux and Epistar which further ensure the brightest, most complete spectrum possible. What’s more, with top quality LED drivers set a static 650mA of output, you’re guaranteed a lifespan in the 50,000+ hour range.

All Platinum Series Lights come with a no questions asked 5 year COMPLETE warranty on all lights! If for any reason your light fails within this time period, we will either fix it or replace it, guaranteed.

All Platinum Series LED Lights come with some of the lowest prices per watt on the market. Compare us to the rest! You simple cannot purchase a higher quality, lower priced output. Period.

They absolutely do! Various universities and government agencies like NASA have used LED Grow lights to grow a variety of flowering, fruit bearing plants and leafy greens. Many other indoor growers and hobbyists have documented their indoor grow with LED grow lights on the internet! Follow our indoor growing tips to help produce optimal growth and yield. Below you will find more detailed information about the vegetative growth stage of a plant’s growth cycle.

For optimal growth and yield you must use your LED grow light properly and follow best growing practices. The biggest mistakes people make with LEDs are overwatering, using too much nutrients, not having enough light and not placing the light at the proper distance. If you do not provide your working area with enough light coverage, you can expect less than robust growth. Similarly, incorrect light placement will not have optimal results. Placing a light too close will stunt growth, too far will cause stretching. Follow the recommended coverage areas listed on the Details Page of each light for optimal light penetration and coverage. Keep in mind that there are many variables to indoor growing, so you may want to add or remove some light depending on your own specifics.

Vegetative growth is maintained with 16 or more hours of light. You can even keep the plants under 24 hours of light and they will continue to grow in this stage. However, the recommended growth cycle is 18 hours of light during the vegetative growth stage. This light cycle will create an environment that mimics the photoperiod in the summer with long days. During the vegetative stage is when you will start to reap the benefits of your LED grow lights. During this period you will save on your electricity bills and get superior growing results. In the vegetative stage, plants need less intense lighting than in the flowering stage. It is during the vegetative growth stage that cloning, transplanting, pruning, and bending are all initiated.

Turn your LED grow light ON for 18 hours a day and then turn the light OFF and leave your plant in the dark for another 6 hours. Your plant will need four to six weeks of this cycle to be ready to start the flowering stage. Pre-flowers are the first indication that the plant is ready to move into the next stage of growth. The pre-flowers grow at branch internodes just behind the leaf spur in around the fourth week of vegetative growth, when the plant is six to eight weeks old. When you start seeing pre-flowers forming this means that the plants are ready to go into the flowering stage. You can continue to grow in the vegetative growth stage or switch to flowering at this point. The pre-flower looks like a regular female flower with white fuzzy pistils. The pre-flowering can take from one to two weeks. Wait to induce flowering until pre-flowers have appeared. Induce flowering by switching your light cycle to 12 hours of uninterrupted darkness and 12 hours of light.

In nature flowering occurs in the fall, after the long hot days of summer. The long nights and short days of autumn signal the start of flowering. With LED grow lights we mimic the seasons by changing the light cycle from 18 hours a day to 12 hours. Give your plants 12 hours of uninterrupted darkness and 12 hours of light to induce visible signs of flowering in two weeks or less. Adding more light to the plants also help give bigger flowers and yield. Once you have induced flowering for one to two weeks and flowering starts, it can last can last eight weeks or longer.

During flowering, growth patterns and chemistry changes in the plants. Stems elongate, leaves grow progressively fewer blades and flower formation is rapid at first then slows. Phosphorus and potassium uptake increase to promote floral formation. Your nutrients should have less nitrogen and more potassium and phosphorus during flowering. Don’t give nutrients too often as this can cause your plant to get nutrient burned. You should use about 30% less nutrients with LED flowering grow lights as compared to MH/HPS systems. Do not overwater and do not harvest too early.

Flowers initially appear near the top of the terminal growth and gradually develop on lower branches starting at the tips and moving downward. Flowers have white pistils which look like hairs. The pistils are attached at the base to an ovule which is contained in a light green pod called a calyx. Pistil packed calyxes form dense clusters along the stems. These clusters are called a top or cola. The calyxes form develop rapidly for the first four weeks after which they grow at a slower rate. Must of the harvest weight is then put on the last two or three weeks of growth when the calyx formation has slowed which is why it is so important to not harvest too early because the majority of your yield comes the last couple weeks. The pistils will continue to swell and change in color from white to amber to reddish brown. Once this occurs you are ready to harvest your plants.

Keeping the proper distance between your full spectrum LED grow lights and your plants is important to robust photosynthesis and growth. Your LED grow light provides the wavelengths of light your plants need for growth and flowering. Plants will reach for the much coveted light source just like they grow towards the sun in outdoor conditions. The general rule of thumb is to increase the distance between the top of the plants’ canopy and the light source as the light becomes more intense. This means that hydroponic LED grow lights of different power ratings will perform best at different distances.

Specific hanging distance recommendations can be found on each product page. Maintain these distances as your plants grow in the vegetative stage. For plant stretching increase the distance from the the plants to the light. For shorter, bushier plants decrease the distance. As you raise the light, the plants will reach for the source and grow taller. If you keep the light fixed, the plants will grow tall to a certain point, then grow wider and more dense. Putting lights too close to the plants may be too intense and stunt growth and create discoloration. It is best to follow the recommended distances and adjust as necessary. During flowering the lights can be left at a constant distance.

Since LED grow lights emit 90% less heat than traditional HID lighting such as high pressure sodium or metal halide bulbs, your plants will not dry out or burn if you happen to place your LED grow light to close to your plants. However, your plants’ growth will be stunted if the light is hanging too low. Within a week you will notice that your plants are not experiencing robust growth and the leaves may become discolored. If you do experience this result, adjust by increasing the distance between your light and the plants. Follow the recommended hanging distances and your plants will thrive in your grow room.

Hydroponic gardening is simply growing plants in a water and nutrient solution without soil. Hydroponics allows you to grow plants and fruits and vegetables in a more efficient and productive manner; literally anywhere, with less labor, time and gardening area needed.

Hydroponic gardens can be grown indoors, outdoors, and even in small spaces, using several different methods. These methods include growing plants in containers of water or in other soil-less mediums, including sand, crushed rock, gravel and vermiculite.

The science of hydroponics proves that the only things needed to grow plants are water, nutrients, and a method of delivering the plants food to the root system. The soil itself is simply the backbone for the roots so they have a stable place to grow.

Although hydroponic gardening can be done outdoors, most gardens are indoors or in a greenhouse. Because hydroponic gardening is so efficient, very little space is needed compared to a conventional outdoor garden. In hydroponic gardening, you provide the exact nutrients that your plants need by directly feeding the root system, without ever having to stress the plant due to lack of nutrients or water.

Hydroponic gardening is superior to traditional gardening in most cases. If soil everywhere was of high quality, and if everyone who wanted to grow plants owned the ground to plant it on and had the time to cultivate it, then hydroponics might be rarely used.

However, soil varies greatly in its quality and consistency. When we plant outdoors in the best of soils, large amounts of fertilizer are not needed for proper growth. Many of us, especially city-dwellers, townhome owners or apartment and condo dwellers lack even a small plot of land to grow plants. Even if you live in the tiniest of apartments you can raise fruits, herbs, vegetables and flowering plants. You can raise plants hydroponically in pots or individual containers and adapt your hydroponic garden to any size space available.

As the amount of arable land continues to decrease (over 10 million hectares per year are lost), an environmental benefit of hydroponic gardening will gain attention: Hydroponic gardens can produce the same yield as soil gardens in about 1/5 the space. And because artificially lit hydroponic gardens are not dependent on growing seasons, they can produce yields several times a year rather than just once. It has even been speculated that in decades to come, hydroponics will become a significant food source for over-populated urban regions, with people growing food on rooftops or in basements.

Hydroponic nutrients are one of the most important components of your hydroponic growing system. This method of growing plants without the use of soil supplies food to the plants by using nutrient media.

Every plant needs to receive the right amount of phosphorous, nitrogen, potassium, and many different trace elements. The wrong nutrient balance, or a solution without enough hydroponic nutrients in it, could cause serious problems for your hydroponic system. Lets take a look at hydroponic nutrients and how to pick the ones that are right for you.

There are all kinds of different commercial nutrient options out there. Some claim to help your plants smell better. Others will allow you to produce plants more quickly, to get more blooms on your flowering plants, or to produce sturdy plants with significant root systems. The right hydroponic nutrients for your garden will depend in part on what you want to grow, and what the primary focus of your growing might be. Someone interested in producing greens quickly won’t want the same hydroponic nutrients as someone who wants to get a big yield from their tomato plants

Price will be another factor in the hydroponic nutrients you decide to purchase. Not all brands are priced the same, and some of them could make your growing process extremely expensive. On the other hand, the cheapest hydroponic nutrients on the market might not produce high quality plants. You need to set a price range appropriate to what you can afford to spend, then buy the highest quality hydroponic nutrients you can within that price range. That is the best way to get a great hydroponic garden without spending too much.

What about pH? You will need to pay attention to the pH level of your nutrient solution. An overly acidic or overly alkaline solution could be bad for your plants in the long run. The majority of plants prefer an acidity within the 5.5 to 7.5 range – more alkaline nutrient solutions may prevent them from absorbing all the nutrients available. Overly acidic solutions may cause damage to the roots.

Most nutrient solutions are a little acid, and the majority of tap water has a pH of about 7 to 8. This means that you won’t have too much trouble dropping your hydroponic nutrients solution into the correct range. However, you will still need to test the pH from time to time if you want to get the most out of your hydroponic garden.

Following a good nutrient regime and keeping it simple will go a long way to ensure adequate uptake of all the essential nutrients. It is advisable not to use too many formulations, as it may be very difficult to trace the exact cause of the problem if there are many additives and supplements in the nutrient mix.

The right nutrients are essential to an effective hydroponic garden. Take a little time to check out your options and see what is likely to be right for your needs. You might be surprised what a change in nutrient solutions could do! By coming in to our retail store or calling us, we can go over all the options when it comes to nutrients and what might work best for your gardening needs.

I would recommend No. The water that comes out of a dehumidifier can contain many fungal spores especially if the unit is older. The high microbial contamination is not suitable for growing plants unless boiled first.

Yes there is quite a difference actually. Tap water may be suitable to drink but can contain high levels of minerals that may not be suitable for plants. You can have your water analyzed at the local waterworks company to find out a break down of what’s in the water. Usually tap water is usable for growing but using distilled water is much better. Distilled water is totally pure and is the best water to use to feed your plants. Growers who use well water will often have to use a reverse osmosis machine to clean their water and remove almost all impurities.

Using h202 in the reservoir will kill the pythium spores, but it may also damage healthy roots that are still remaining unless given the right dose. H202 will oxidize organic material in general, rather than only killing the pythium. Once the damage is gotten this far it’s hard to control. When it comes to pythium the best method for control is prevention. If your crop is close to being done then the best thing to do would be to finish it off and after harvest sterilize everything! Try and keep on top of it this time. Keep reservoir temperature.

Yes, allowing it to sit with the lid off of the container for 24-48 hours will allow the chlorine in the water to dissipate.

Most plants do not respond well to saltwater, but different plants have different levels of sodium tolerance. Eventually feeding with saltwater will kill your plants, so this is not recommended.

PH stands for probable hydrogen. It is a measurement of a nutrient solution’s relative concentration of positive hydrogen ions. It is measured in a scale of 14. 0 being neutral and below 7 is acidic and above 7 is called alkaline.

Yes it is extremely important. The PH affects the way a plant absorbs it’s nutrients. If the plants PH is too low (acidic), acid salts bind up nutrients chemically and the roots are unable to absorb them. Too high of a PH (alkaline) and certain nutrients become unavailable.

For every full point change in PH causes in an increase or decrease by 10 times. For example soil with a PH of 6 is 10 times more acidic than soil with a PH of 7Soil with a PH of 6 is 100 times more acidic than soil with a PH of 8. So yes a point or two really does matter.

To adjust and make the PH lower or more acidic you can use PH down, a pre mix concentrate which is usually phosphoric or nitric acid but a number of acids will work to lower the PH. To raise the PH use a pre mix concentrate which is usually potassium hydroxide.

No. While it will lower the PH, your plants will not be happy. It might cause a reaction with fertilizer salts in your nutrient solution.

If you are in the vegetative stage use nitric acid. It will give your plants a small amount of nitrogen. If you are in the flowering stage use the phosphoric acid and it will give your plants a small amount of phosphorus.

Yes, ozone is the strongest oxidant for disinfecting your water. Use ozone prior to mixing your nutrient solution. Clean the water first using ozone, and then add the nutrients. The ozone will not react well with the nutrients.

The best would be distilled, and is also very readily available. Tap water has a high chlorine content but if left out for 24 hours it will have enough time for the chlorine to dissipate and will be suitable swell, providing it’s not well water. But distilled is definitely the way to go.

Possibly the beginning of a certain type of algae, or perhaps just residue from your medium. If the medium is rock wool or hydroton it is harmless. Possibly your nutrients are precipitating in the reservoir resulting in a cloudy deposit. If your reservoir temperature is climbing too high this can also have a negative effect on your nutrient solution. Make sure your reservoir temperature is running between 55 – 65 f. The warmer the reservoir the less available oxygen is there for the roots. As temperature raises this really slows down the growth rate and becomes prone to disease and fungal attack.

No, plants do not take c02 through the root system. This will have no positive affect what so ever. Add Oxygen to your root system instead to ensure an optimal growth rate. The roots combine sugars with oxygen to produce energy for the plant. The plant breathes in C02 to produce those sugars it needs to convert to energy. This cycle is known as Photosynthesis.

The best and most cost effective way is to use a suitable size air pump running on a continual basis.

The Ideal temperature for the nutrient solution to be at is between 55-65 F.

Some growers use chitosan or silica in the reservoir to increases the plants natural defense system. Some also use a variety of beneficial microbes in the nutrient solution to fight off any opposing fungi. Keep your nutrient solution clean and at the right temperature (55 – 65 F). Always clean and sterilize equipment between each crop.

The algae are forming due to the light coming in contact with the standing water in your table corners. Try and cover this some how. Fill it with clay pellets or a piece of white poly but somehow block the light from coming in contact with the standing water. Algae are bad and are a breeding ground for fungus gnats.

If the fertilizer is granular (dry) then this is very common and is usually caused by a protective coating that is applied to it while being manufactured. If you are using liquid fertilizer and clouding still occurs on a regular basis you should contact the manufacturer of the fertilizer and find out why. Make sure you mix your fertilizer in the specified order. Often times manufacturers require there fertilizer be mixed in a certain order.

No it is not needed this young in the plants early stage. At this stage there will be hardly any organic matter for the h202 to attack therefore it will attack fragile little root hairs. Older root systems are stronger and more resistant to h202 damage unless extremely high doses occur.

Just add water until PPM reaches desired level. Only do this once. After one time the nutrient tank should be drained and replaced with a fresh new mixture. Always monitor your nutrient solution for drastic changes in ppm.

In the bloom stage the plants use allot of potassium which naturally acidifies the nutrient solution.

Certain types of Styrofoam and polystyrene can have toxicity problems with plants. Certain type’s work fine for growers and I will do more research into which ones work okay. Commercial lettuce operations are often run in Styrofoam. I will definitely get back to you on this one. Great question!

Nutrient film Technique. It works by running a thin film of nutrient solution over the plants root system usually in a flood or trough system. This very old method and is very effective for high yields.

First thing is to get your reservoir out of to your grow room or as far away from the lights as possible. If you can possibly dig a whole deep in the ground and drop your reservoir beneath surface level this will also help allot. A cheap but real pain in the ass method is to freeze 2 liter bottles of water and constantly add one to the reservoir because they will only last a couple of hours. If you want to go high tech then you can invest in a reservoir chiller that will cool your nutrient solution by running it through refrigerated coils set by thermostat. Unfortunately these units are costly but are worth every penny when temperatures get too high. If the temperature in your reservoir gets too hot growth rate will slow immediately and you will see the effects very quickly. High reservoir temperatures leave the nutrient solution prone to disease and fungal attacks. Keep the nutrient solution between 55-66F for optimal growth.

Because the hydroton and rock wool mixture will retain some water, watering once an hour for 2-3 minutes would be a sufficient feeding cycle. When the plants are very young the time can be reduced to every 2 hours instead of for every 1 hour. Watering in the night cycle can be reduced to every 4 hours. Many of the cycle stat timers now come with photocells and a night mode which will automatically reduce the feeding cycle for the dark periods. They are a definite must in any indoor garden running on an automated feeding system.

Usually products such as Rubbermaid are rate as food grade based on the fact that food could quite possibly be stored in them. Always look for food grade plastics when seeking out material for a hydroponics garden. Better to be safe than sorry. Some plastics can leach back releasing harmful toxins into the water system so be careful what you use. The safest bet would be to purchase equipment for hydroponics growing so you know it will be made of the correct materials. These can be purchased right here online or at your local hydro shop.

Yes, it is very beneficial to your garden. It increases the plants resistance to disease as well as salinity. It also increases the pant in strength and health. Use potassium silicate in your reservoir in small doses always to maintain a strong resistant plant.

Charcoal filters are very efficient in removing unwanted odors. They remove 99% of all grow room odor when used correctly. Nothing on the market can compete with a high quality charcoal filter for grow room odor removal.

Yes. Not nearly as effective as a charcoal filter but they do work to some degree. They do kill bacteria and fungi very well.

High levels of ozone can burn your skin and really hurt your eyes. Do not stare directly at the lamp in an ozone generator. If you can smell a strong ozone presence in your room that means you are using too much. Ozone will oxidize the cells in your lungs and can be hazardous to your health.

Ozone is 03. Oxygen is 02. Ozone is oxygen with a third atom stuck to it. It does not like having a third atom stuck to it and it will do anything to get rid of it. After about 1/2 an hour the third atom falls off looking to grab a partner. In this case fungi and bacteria are usually that partner. Once the 03 has shaken its third atom it becomes stable again and can move on. Ozone works best when it has a chance to mix or swirl with its particles.

Ozone lamps (germicidal) produce high energy photons that hit oxygen gas and expand the electrons and a third oxygen comes together to form O3 (ozone). Germicidal lamps are powered by special ballast and come in a variety of different sizes to fit specific grow room requirements.

That depends on the manufacturer. High quality filters such as Can filters or PHAT filters will last from 2- 3 years of continuous use. They can be repacked but its really not worth it by the time you by the carbon and get it in the odds of it working as well as when you got it are slim and none, These filters are professionally manufactured for long lasting unsurpassed duality while the average Joe at home cant possibly pack the carbon properly. After 3 years of use you should feel no worries about replacing it. I’m sure it has given you your moneys worth from it long ago.

Yes, lots of air movement is essential for a productive indoor garden. Oscillating fans push the air through the leaves and the tops of the plants which is where good air flow is a must. Leaves take I n the air on there underside through tiny microscopic pores known as the stomata. Oscillating fans help keep a constant supply of air movement within the plants which really helps the plant replenish itself with fresh air.

There are 2 very good options. 1st being propane or natural gas C02 burners. 2nd being C02 tanks used with a regulator and solenoid hooked up to a timer. The propane and gas burners produce high amounts of heat, but are definitely more efficient cost wise to operate compared to the cylinders. Propane is easily available at local gas stations while cylinder usually has to purchase at a welding ship. Some hydro stores carry them for lease. If the room is large then the propane or gas burner is much more efficient. If heat is a serious problem then the cylinders definitely have an advantage in that they produce no heat but can get costly to operate on a large scale. The burners have been known to cause high humidity in the room so growers will have to really keep an eye on humidity when using a burner.

Yes It is. Growers on average report 20-30% increase in their yields when using C02 properly. C02 is what your plant breathes and requires for photosynthesis. It is truly amazing how well your garden will do when adding Co2. It is truly the best thing you can add to your garden to really get it growing in high gear. I cannot say enough good things about it. It is expensive to set up, but once you’re going look out because it’s going to get out of hand! Save your money from expensive additives and supplements and invest in a C02 system and you will be seriously impressed. I can sit here all day and tell you how great it is but you have to see it to believe it.

The ultimate temperature your roots will be most productive is 75 F (23.9 c)

C02 plays a major role in photosynthesis. The leaves produce sugars by using light to combine water and nutrients with C02. When you increase the rate of photosynthesis with C02 you increase the growth rate and the potential yield for your plant will increase.

Based on CFM per amperage inline fans are usually most efficient. They have been designed with maximum air flow at a minimum wattage leaving the grower with a very efficient product. Squirrel cages are becoming a thing of the past now with the evolution of inline fans taking over the market. That delivers so much more CFM per watt than the typical blower that only makes sense to invest in an inline fan.

Ideally the humidity should sit around 55-65%. Any higher than 70% can pose a serious problem. High humidity in the dark cycle can lead to gray mold and can ruin a crop. Humidity is very important and should be maintained with a hygrometer. These are in expensive and really help. When the humidity reaches a high level a dehumidifier is a must. These can be purchased at Home depot or Wal-Mart and they work excellent. They can easily pull 5 gallons a day out of the air if your grow room is humid so keep an eye on your humidity levels.

A safe recommendation is 125 CFM per 1000 watt lamp in the summer this should rise to 150 CFM per 1000 watt lamp. Excess heat can really slow production down.

Yes this is very easily done. It is very simple and works so well. First measure the dimensions of the rear of the unit. Call a heating and ducting company and have then fabricate you a box. Most ducting companies will do custom fabrication for very reasonable prices. Have them construct you a box 2 feet deep with a 4 inch round duct at the end. Have the box built so it fits perfectly over the rear of your window AC unit. The idea of the box is trap the heat produced from the rear of the unit. Once you have a fabricated steel box fasten it with self tapping screws to the AC unit. Attach a 4″ inline fan to the 4″ duct on your box to suck the heat from the AC unit. Vent the 4″ duct out a dryer duct or through the furnace to remove the heat the AC unit produces. It may seem like a lot but it is a simple procedure and it will really reduce the heat in your grow room. I had a box made for $45 and it worked like a charm.

Use the aluminum. It will retain the heat better than the vinyl will and will also retain the heat better. Aluminum ducting is not much more than the vinyl and is a much better purchase in the long run.

The Stomata is tiny microscopic pore on the leaves undersides that control the flow of air into the plant. Basically the Nostril of the plant. It is important to keep plants free of dust and dirt as it can clog these tiny pores. High humidity also affects the stomata by reducing its ability to respire. The surrounding air is so humid and full of after the plant can not breathe out as the surrounding air is full of water already and cannot accept the moisture the plant is trying to send off.

The room temperature should be between 72-75F for maximum rooting time.

C02 burners are safe when used correctly. The first precaution is to purchase a carbon monoxide detector. Theses are very cheap (around $ 40) and will let you know if your home reaches high levels of carbon monoxide. Co2 burners should be purchased based on grow room size and therefore should be safe to operate. Make sure your burner is mounted securely. Remember this is a fire hazard due to the fact there are flames burning at all times. Make sure nothing is in the way of the unit and that is secure and will not tip over. Test for leaks using soapy water at all fittings at least once a month. When used properly C02 burners are great. They do however require some care and are not for the average Joe who is just playing around.

Dry ice is C02 that has been frozen and compressed into blocks. As it melts it turns from solid into gas releasing C02 into the air. Unfortunately it is hard to store and can get expensive to use.

With Carbon filters you are getting what you pay for. Can Filters will last a lot longer then an ODORSOK but cost a lot more. ODORSOK’s work excellent but will not last as long as CanFilter. Both work excellent but CanFilter will last longer so in the long run will be your best bet, if your on a tight budget and need a quick reliable fix to odor problems then the ODORSOK is an excellent choice.

You can purchase a flange separate from your filter and fan or have it come with everything in a Box Combo all that you need to do is take the foam tape gasket and apply it to the outer edges of the flange then simply center the flange on the filter and use 6 Tek screws and drill into the top of the filter in a star pattern. And viola! Your flange is now attached to the filter.

Every different size of filter provides a different resistance to each different size and style of fan you put on it, a filter at the maximum exhaust CFM rating has approximately 0.7 wg. pressure drop All Fans will have a lower CFM at a higher pressure. For Example at .5″wg The 10″ Max-Fan goes from 1019 CFM to 885 CFM, The 12″ Max-Fan would go from 1708 CFM to 1595 CFM

It is a good idea to replace the pre-filter when they become dirty because the pre filter is blocking larger dirt and dust particles from getting into the pore structure of the carbon, a dirty pre filter increases the pressure, which will decrease the flow through the filter.

Technically the filter can be re-filled, but it is not a good idea to self-fill the filters at all, the reason for this is that Can-Filters uses an industrial shaker with timed intervals and a dust extraction system, to ensure a packed carbon bed .This eliminates the possibility of preferred air channels through the filter, because as we all know, air does not wait in line to go through a filter it finds the path of least resistance and crowds in. So if you tried packing the filter yourself, as soon as you got it as full as you think you could get it, attached a fan and turned it on, the fan would vibrate the carbon, and over time the carbon would settle and you would be left with air gaps all over the place presenting the air with channels to flow through the filter and possibly leave untreated.

The maximum recommended temperature that you can run your filter at is 80 Degrees Centigrade, and as soon as your start rising above 70% humidity, the water molecules in the air start to get stuck in the carbon pore structure and slowly diminish the life of the filter.

The life of a filter is determined by the concentration of the contaminant, the relative humidity and the volume of air cleaned. Unfortunately there is no indicator light on the filter that tells you when it is ready to be replaced. Experience with one Can-Filter will give you an expectation for future Can-Filters in your particular application.

During the manufacturing process Canfilters uses an industrial shaker to vibrate the filter to ensure the carbon bed is packed tight and full to the top. This process eliminates any preferential channels which would allow the odor to pass through the carbon without the proper contact time. Canfilters only uses quality activated carbon that is designed for our manufacturing process. The CFG packed bed design filter ensures the highest quality odor control.

Yes there is and it’s really quite simple, all you need to do is take your cubic feet of the room (Length x Width x Height) and divide that number by the number of minutes you would like to exchange the air in the room (Only 1 – 3 Minutes is recommended) and that will give you the recommended minimum CFM that you need for that room, then you take that Min CFM number and match it to one of our filters and as long as that Minimum recommended CFM is higher then the exhaust minimum on the filter you will have adequate airflow and proper filtration for that room.

Yes. Both the Can-Fan and the Max-Fan line of fans are 100% speed controllable, Try the Can-Trol Speed Control for your 120V fans, This control provides absolutely no motor hum when controlling the fan, it also gives you the option to control the voltage entering your fan, with an easy to use dial you can go from 1v to 130V with a turn of your hand, no matter what voltage you run, your fan will not hum!

You can both pull through the filter or push air through the filter, if you are going to push air through the filter it is recommended to take off the outer pre-filter and place it before the intake of the fan so you can remove dust and dirt particulate before it enters your fan and filter.